Rakuzen @ Chulan Square KL

A little history - I was not really a fan of Japanese food in the past. Thanks for my dad who was never adventurous when it comes to food, I practically grew up eating Chinese food. So imagine my reaction when having sushi for the first time :P the sight of raw sashimi was too much to take and the idea of walloping raw stuff was out of question. However, everything has its first time and mine was only tuna mayo sushi (one and only one)! Even miso soup took me a few trips to get used to. Enter Jenn into the fray and she literally persuaded me to try everything. LOL! think back of those days.. maybe I was in love with her so each and every words coming out from her mouth worked magic :) and now, it was my turn to teach her a thing or two about sashimi!

Jenn and I knew each other since we were 15 and when we went to study in KL after SPM, $$$ was tight and having sushi was considered luxury at our times. Saving up enough moolah to take her out to Genki Sushi (hey! this was the most popular place for us in the 90s) was what I did at that time. It was great to spend time with the one I love (do not forget that we were only friends at that time) and it was very well-worth the effort. The sight of her glowing face while having sushi was unforgetable. Oh did I mention that the time with her never seemed enough? We had so much to chat yet so little time and I always look forward to see her again. Now both of us are husband & wife... life got better for us and we could afford to eat at better Japanese restaurants. I could remember how she raved on Rakuzen, as her sister treated her for a meal there once.

It was her birthday & I had decided to bring her there. We were staying in The Westin Hotel KL & we made reservation for dinner at Rakuzen in Chulan Square. It had stopped raining and therefore the weather was rather cool as we walked there holding hands.

We were there in less than 10 minutes

We got ourselves a table facing the busy stretch of Jalan Raja Chulan. We just sipped out hot ocha while watching the world passed by.

Shun no sashimi mariowase - salmon, maguro, baby squid, Japanese Sea Bream & half-beaked fish. This is actually a seasonal menu (especially for the sea bream and half-beaked fish) so availability is not guaranteed (we were here sometime in April). Everything was freshly prepared and we were more than happy to clean up the plate, sparing nothing.

Quarter tray of Nama uni (sea urchin) - my first time tasting raw sea urchin and it was had a hint of saltiness (from the seawater perhaps) and sweet nonetheless. LOVE IT! Don't be fooled with this picture as the portion was rather small for RM45. We should have ordered larger portion!

Dragon roll - fried king prawn roll topped with avocado. You can find this practically almost every Japanese restaurant and sushi joints in Klang Valley. Our love for avocado and the crispy-ness of the king prawn justified our order.

Saba shioyaki - grilled mackarel with salt. No complains!

Ara no Miso Shiru - fish head miso soup. Jenn is a sucker for fish head! You should see her when she's having fish head noodles LOL!

Hotate Miso Shiru - scallop miso soup. I am perhaps more lazy and therefore settled for scallop instead of fish head :P

Goma Ice - black sesame ice-cream with sesame seed. As usual, sweet note to end our satisfying dinner!

Leo's verdict - probably the most expen! sive &am p; satisfying Japanese meal that I had so far but it is worth every penny spent! everything was top notch and service was attentive too. Pardon for the dark pictures as I was still using Ixus at that time.

Rakuzen
Block B Lot 2A Chulan Square,
92 Jalan Raja Chulan, 50200 KL
GPS: 3.148518, 101.716114
Tel: 03-2145 6200

Disclaimer:
1) I'm not paid to promote/endorse any particular event, restaurant or person in this blog. ALL are based on my unbiased personal opinion.
2) My reviews are based on my personal taste and preference and therefore may vary for others.

Curtis Duffy at Senses. A Beautiful Dinner from a 2 Star Michelin Chef.

(no pork served)

Sea Urchin with Rhubarb Anise Hyssop Blooms Frozen Hojo SantaWhen Aly asked if me I were willing to fork RM 398 for a dinner cooked by Curtis Duffy at Senses, I have to admit I was a little bit intimidated. Coming from a lineage that includes Grant Achatz from the famed Alinea Restaurant in Chicago, I was afraid that Curtis Duffy's menu would be too "molecular", too derivative. I have not always been a big fan of Molecular Gastronomy, having believe that test tubes should stay in labs and some over enthusiastic Chefs place too much emphasis on form over function.

Bubbles, smoke and pyrotechnic theatrics distract me from the pleasure of dining and some chefs would be guilty of what Santi Santamaria (who passed away in Singapore in Feb 2011) cautioned against. Quoting directly from Santi's book, "one of the greatest challenges faced by todays chefs is to avoid becoming the court jesters of the snobs and the posh.", a direct jibe directed against the vanguards of Avante Garde Cuisine.

Olive Oil Poached Faroe Island Salmon withFavorsof Fennel, Black Olive and AbsintheWhen the amuse bouche arrived, I realized that my fears were unfounded. What was served was a beautiful intersection of the beautiful curve of creative cuisine, the linear severity of physical science and the hyperbole of creativity and playfulness. A beautiful, edible three dimensional post modern art installation to be admired and savoured.

The tart and sourish Rhubarb Jelly played with the rich smoothness of Sea Urchin amidst the cold backdrop of minty frozen Hojo ! Santa pe ppered with the liquorice flavoured Hyssop blossoms. It was tantalizingly imaginative and fresh and heart achingly beautiful. It is evident that this was not some whimsical dish and a lot of thought have been given to create such beautiful flavours and contrasts.

Olive Oil Poached Faroe Island Salmon, emphasizing the Absinthe Foam.
The Silky Smooth Flesh of the SalmonThe Olive Oil Poached Faroe Island Salmon was also outstanding. The flesh mantained it's firmness and flavours like a sous vide dish and the gentle poaching in olive oil rendered it's textureunctuously smooth. It came accompanied with all the parts of Fennel, the bulb, the fronds, the stem and it's blossom together with Red Sorrel and chopped black olives. The black dressing that came with it was not BalsamicVinaigrette, but seems to be a combination of mustards and black olive. The absinthe foam lent the dish a delightfully gentle aniseed flavour.

The dish evoked beautiful memories of walking through a herb garden in Spring with it's haunting scents.

Nantucket Bay Scallop with Romaine Lettuce Marmalade, Nasturtium Leaves and Their Flowers with White Poppy Seed Milk.The Nantucket Bay Scallop was overtly sensual. Beautifully luscious slices of thick scallops felt like moist lips kissing me, bathed in delightful ambrosial cool milk that Cleopatra was rumoured to bath in. The Nas! turtium Leaves and Petals lent it an exotic peppery flavour that was swathed in herbaceous Romaine Marmalade with bits of sweet Poppy Seeds that thrilled the palate.

Long after the plate was removed, I could still imagine the beautiful flavours of this beautiful ensemble.

Barley Risotto with Amaranth and GrainsSunflower Seed Consomme being poured into the RisottoCompared to the overt sensuality of the scallops, the complex, earthy and grainy Barley Risotto was an intellectual enigma. I could discern Barley and Quinoa and Amarnth and saw some Sultanas in the mix, but there was an added complexity to it, sweet and nutty, with unidentified herbs and even a tangy citrusy dimension to it. It came served with a cube of Crme Fraiche.

I could sit all day trying to dissect the flavours and mull over the enigma of incompatibilityof quantum physics with relativity and space.

Grilled Wagyu Beef Ribeye with Smoked Cocunut Pudding, preserved Kumquats and Basil NotesThere is a disconcerting masculinesavagery to the next dish which was the Wagyu Beef Ribeye. It was red to the point of appearing raw. Fortunately, one just requires table cutlery to tear through this really soft, smooth and succulent piece of almost rare meat thanks to the ingenuity of the Chef. The meat was cooked sous vide, with all the flavours sealed in before being grilled.

Exciting tropical fla! vours we re scattered on the plate, camphor like basil notes with tangy kumquats and even some passion fruit puree(?) which jostled with the coconut pudding for attention. The combination of flavours were unsual, but lent an air of exquisite civility to the meat.

SudachiScience meets playful culinary invention in this pristine little mouth sized ball. I did not attend Duffy's Masterclass, but I perhaps can deduce that frozen Sudachi Juice was wrapped with Cocoa Butter and White Chocolate and left to thaw in a referigerator. Due to the different melting points in the Chocolate and Frozen liquid, popping one in the mouth will melt the chocolate and release the Sudachi Juice in an explosion of tart tangy sourness that was counterbalanced by the chocolate's creamy sweetness.

All of us squealed in delight after popping it into our mouths.

Bittersweet Chocolate with Huckleberries, Cassia Caramel, Brown Butter Powder, Chamomile and SteviaThe Dessert was strands of Manjari ganache, served on a plate splattered with Blueberry and Lemon Puree, Cassia Buds and Huckelberries. It came topped with a scoop of Mandarin Sorbet garnished with Dill. Although the flavours were exciting, I can't help feeling like the chocolate was a bit too distracted by the mischievous garnishing and perhaps should just be like the old woman who lived in shoe, whipped the rascals and just send them to bed.

The Maestro Himself, Chef Curtis Duffy
Assisted by his friend, Chef Steven D Greene who together, whipped up a stupendous dinnerI felt like a voyeur during the beautiful dinner as I sat and admired the beautiful plating and partook in one of the most refreshingly original meal I have had this year. Curtis Duffy has an obsession with imaginative usage of herbs and flowers in his food which elevated the dishes to almost an ethereal romantic dimension. If this is Modern American Cuisine, it is time the world sat up and took notice.

The Management of Senses should be congratulated for managing to bring in Curtis and his team to showcase their remarkable talent here.

Senses
KL Hilton.

Ben's, KLCC, Kuala Lumpur

Ben's at KLCC was our destination for lunch after spending the morning at Petrosains. We took a peek inside and liked what we saw (nice decor and fairly quiet when we arrived at 11.30am). The menu selection was vast, so we knew there would something somewhere in that menu which would suit our tastebuds.


To Eat is to Love

Sleek

Contemporary decor, modelled after a Manhattan townhouse

With a view of the KLCC Park and Fountain

Service was very pleasant, and the waiting staff were pretty attentive (well until the point where the place filled up to the brim then it was more difficult to get their attention). We were sat in a nice corner with a view of the KLCC Park. It did take us quite a while going through the menu, there was afterall 14 types of salads, 12 types of sandwiches, 16 types of pasta, 23 types of desserts and more. You get the drift.

Ice Lemon Tea (RM8.90)



T2 English Breakfast Tea (RM7.90 per pot)

Root Beer Float (RM7.90)

I would rate the Chunky Mushroom Soup (RM11.90) as one of the better ones I've eaten lately. The soup had a nice creamy texture and was fragrant from the truffle oil. The mushroom bits were in abundance, so extra brownie points for that. A slice of garlic toast was served with the soup.


One of my fellow diners had the simple but delicious Beef Bolognese Spaghettini (RM18.90) served with Parmagiano and basil leaf. A well prepared dish.

I had the Duck Confit Ciabatta (RM22.90) served with caramelised onions, four colour chips and a side salad. Everything, and I mean everything was delicious. The duck confit ciabatta was excellent, from the flavoursome shredded duck confit to the caramelised onions. And the chips were crispy and so addictive, I could munch on them all day. Even the side salad (edamame, nuts, radicchio, lettuce) was tasty.
Gorgeous duck confit ciabatta

Crispy four colour chips

Appetizing salad

Another fellow diner had the Quiche Lorraine (RM15.90). I have to say it looks really mouthwatering though I never tried it. She commented that it was really good. The quiche is also served with a side salad.


Hubby had the Ben's Cheeseburger on a sesame seed bun (RM23.90) with cheddar slices, french fries and a side salad. Top marks for the satisfying, thick juicy patty.


We had hits and misses with the desserts here. The strawberry shortcake (RM9.90) ma! de with fresh cream and vanilla sponge was lovely and the best dessert we had that afternoon. Coming in at second place was the Banoffee Sundae (RM9.90), a mix of fresh bananas, shortbread, ice-cream and chocolate sauce. The tiramisu (RM11.90) was mediocre as I personally felt it lacked the strong coffee and alcoholic taste that I like with this dessert. The least favorite dessert was my order of Red Velvet Cake (RM10.90) which tasted weird, the cake had been reheated in the microwave and the chocolate ganache just didn't taste right.

Strawberry shortcake

Banoffee Sundae

Tiramisu

Red velvet cake
The place was really packed by the time we left and there was a queue forming for people wanting to get in. Talk about good business.


Verdict: The food is good, so I would not hesitate recommending this place. However, be warned ! that the noise levels can be pretty bad at peak hours (so loud that you have to shout to speak to the person sitting directly opposite you).

Opening times: 10am to 11pm daily.

Service: Good.

Price: RM200 for 4 pax.

Location: Ben's at KLCC, Lot 140, 1st Floor, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 50088 Kuala Lumpur. (opposite Harrods)

Tel: 03-2163 1655

In Pictures: More From ARSE4

The full list of the 'official wines' those speed tasted on the three tables is up on Adegga... Each producer was showcasing one wine and had just 4 minutes or so (Chris Unger showing the Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Riesling and Yalumba's The Scribbler went WAY over time!! We put it down to being passionate about his wares rather than just being overly talkative!). For me the highlights were the McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2005, the Tahbilk Viognier 2009 and the Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008.

Then, as the food arrived, a flurry of other wines flew around the tables - far too many to keep up with (which is my excuse for not writing them down!). Many had been opened a couple of days from a previous AFFW tasting and were delicious. A comment I made referencing a Yalumba Scribbler 2008 tasted a few weeks ago was so disappointing in comparison to the carefully decanted bottle showcased here; storage possibly to blame but decanting certainly opened it up beautifully. More pictures on Flickr.

arse4 wine tasting - alister purbrick of Tahbilk

arse4 wine tasting - henschke mount edelstone shiraz 2005 decanted

arse4 tasting - phil ryan of McWilliams with!   Mount P leasant Lovedale Semillon 2005

arse4 tasting - tahbilk viognier 2009

arse4 wine tasting - Jim Barry lodge hill riesling  2008