Imagine Sydney remapped as bright, intersecting blocks of reds, blues as well as yellows Crown, Foveaux as well as Riley streets splicing in to each alternative similar to in a Mondrian painting. This is what we see upon entering District Dining in Surry Hills, as well as it's a sign of a spectacle that will crop up upon your table.
Like a bird's-eye city viewpoint during a bistro's entrance, you'll need an aerial view to take in each plate that arrives sculptural scoops of yogurt, an designation of olive bread slices propped opposite stick-thin haloumi as well as ancient artifact chopped tomatoes quarters.
Unlike a featured mural, a food doesn't hang to Mondrian's minimal three-colour spectrum instead, it bursts by with bright as well as blushing shades a swoop of harissa green here, or a burnt-sunset crowd of pumpkin there.
District Dining is a brand new venture for Warren Turnbull, head cook as well as owners of two-hatted Assiette. It's meant to be a hold some-more casual, as well as it manages to feel some-more loose (without being overfriendly or sloppy) whilst staying sophisticated. It's unequivocally likeable.
I'm going to admit, a initial fine-dining grill we ever went to was Assiette in 2005, as well as we revisited it again in 2007. The food, in both cases, was well-developed we wanted to snap-freeze a mental recall of every thing we ate upon both occasions, generally a Mille Feuille of Passionfruit Cream as well! as Trop ical Fruit Salad as well as a Lime Panna Cotta with Orange Sherbert as well as Orange Caviar. The usually cold note was a service, that was noticeably glacial upon both occasions, as well as in fact, it left me presumption all waiters had a default-snooty attitude to immature diners until we went to places similar to Bentley as well as Oscillate Wildly, where a service is so inviting as well as un-judgmental about your bank balance. As most as we favourite a food during Assiette, a wait staff left me feeling similar to we weren't utterly as acquire as, say, investment bankers. So I'm happy to note that District Dining hasn't inherited this attitude a service is most warmer as well as friendlier.
And a food, too, is high-grade - each plate has a hold of magic (without a buzz-killing pricetag that can accompany this peculiarity of dining). There have been mains such as a Hopkins River Sirloin, teamed with a lively allegation of green harissa as well as a small copperpot of kipfler potatoes, all fat-glossed as well as cooked by with caramelised onions ($24) as well as plates to share. There's a plate of gold as well as purple-bright Beetroot, served with sumac-sprinkled clouds of salted yogurt as well as gorgeously roasted nuts ($14). There's additionally Spiced Pumpkin with cooking feta ($14), and, because there aren't many vegetarian options*, we have a Heirloom Tomato Salad but a mojama ($16), that is fine, as a the gold-crunch haloumi, toasted thin slices of olive bread as well as full-flavoured ancient artifact tomatoes have been sufficient to keep me happy. Besides, from a initial menu glance, we was unequivocally staking out for dessert.
Will claimed a Coffee Brulee with Chocolate Madeleine ($12), as well a! s after most sizing up of a remaining options a equally dreamy sounding Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Blood Orange as well as Granita ($12), Meringue with Strawberries, Raspberries as well as Cream ($12) as well as Efi's Rice Pudding with Cinnamon Ice Cream ($12) we went with a meringue thanks to a advice of our great waiter, Lindsay (who additionally multi-tasks as grill manager, sommelier as well as inhouse Twitter expert by a end of our lunch, chef/owner Warren Turnbull was ready to allot 140-word updates upon District Dining.)
The meringue is utterly endorsement-worthy Lindsay is right. It's a smashing take upon Eton mess; a beautiful scoop of hiss sorbet crowns strawberries, cream, sweet ripples of ripened offspring as well as surprise chunks of meringue. A brand new favourite dessert.
The pattern of District Dining is additionally an achievement usually six weeks ago, it was a gaming lounge (designed by Burley Katon Halliday!); its high-speed transformation in to a welcoming, wood-panelled space is something of a wonder.
When Will as well as we had lunch there today, we unequivocally had a complete place to ourselves. It's a proxy luxury, we know, because District Dining usually non-stop progressing this week and, for now, has stayed a quiet secret. The place will undoubtedly crowd up quickly, because a bistro with a likeable menu, great prices, spacious atmosphere as well as a location usually footsteps divided from Central Station (or, some-more dangerously, a well-known karaoke joint) is not going to stay unknown for long in Sydney.
*If we ask, a cook may be able to suggest alternative off-menu vegetarian options
17 Randle Street, Surry Hills, Sydney, NSW (02) 9211 7798, www.districtdining.c! om.au
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