In Malacca - Laksa, Pickles, and Pai Tee

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We're just back from a few days in Malacca. My notebook is full of scribblings, few of which concern food. Dave and I were there (and will be again soon) to work on a heritage story -- which means that, for a change, eating was not our primary concern.

But the beauty of working with a photographer is that while I'm busy with interviews he's out and about, walking the streets looking for great shots. Being Dave, he can't help also being on the lookout for delicious food -- even if that's not the storyline he's shooting to.

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So kudos to The Photographer for rediscovering a great little food court on Temenggong Road, just outside of the old city. (A review of the archives reveals that we actually ate at this bustling spot three years ago.) It's home to a stall serving up some pretty exemplary Nyonya specialties.


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This 75-year-old gentleman swears by Nancy's laksa

Like curry laksa. Nancy does a spare, almost spartan version, more broth than tofu puffs, cockles, and sprouts. Attention to detail is evident in the ever so thinly shaved cucumber and daun kesom (laksa leaf, aka Vietnamese coriander) garnish that she meticulously arranges with small tongs.

It also shows itself in her belacan-free ! sambal, which is bright with chili flavor (not just heat) and a hint of lime leaf.

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Nancy's laksa gravy is superb. It smells and tastes of the freshest coconut milk, yet isn't so over-the-top rich as to weigh you down.

Which is a good thing, because you'd be crazy to walk away without tasting her version of pai tee, a Nyonya specialty rarely (if ever) seen on the street.

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To be honest, I had never encountered a "top hat" -- little pastry cups filled with shrimp or pork, cucumber, stewed jicama and egg -- that I would willingly meet again. The versions I've sampled have always been more style than substance, cute but utlimately disappointing, with too-thick and/or too-oily shells and a lackluster filling.

Nancy's pai tee turned me. Assembled to order (like the laksa garnish, using those tiny tweezer-like tongs), they start with the barest possible fluted pastry shells, and finish with feathers of omelette and a dusting of caramelized sliced shallots. Nancy serves her delicious homemade sweet-hot chili sauce on the side rather than squirting a dab inside each pai tee, to preserve the crunch as long as possible.

Biting into one of her top hats, I finally "got" the point of this dish --- the shatteringly crisp shell, the warm and soft dark soy sauce-stewed jicama, the fresh crunchy cucumb! er, and the chewy egg strips together in one bite made for a lovely marriage of warm and cool, salty and sweet and a little bitter.

Incredible to encounter such a lovingly made version of such an intricate and delicate dish at a hawker stall. (Once again -- the unexpected delights of street food!)

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Bonus: Dave re-stumbled upon Nancy's stall just as her mango tree is fruiting. Which means that we were able to pack home some fantastic mango pickle. On the tart side, somewhat crisp, and really tasting of the fruit, it'll make a perfect side for curry and shine equally as brightly on a sandwich. Also available: a lovely mango jam (fruit, a wee bit of sugar, and nothing else) and mango-dragonfruit jam (slightly less tart than straight mango).

Get 'em while you can.

Nancy's Nyonya Laksa, Pai Tee, etc.Tong Fang Coffeeshop/Food Court, 124 Jalan Temenggong, Melaka. Early morning to noonish, closed Wednesday.


Ms. Jazz Reviews: Der Raum, Melbourne

*waves* Has it been so long since my last entry?! Time passes by too quickly. It doesnt help that the entry i took 1 week to write with much effortdid not autosaved itself and end up wiping out all my effort (and my time)

Prior to my Melbourne Trip last week, i've tried to explore more eateries, bars, clubs so my activities of the week evolved around eat, drink, drunk, hangover, eat .. u'd get my drift :)

One of the particularbar with a cutting edgethat inspired me is Der Raum @ Richmond. Voted Cocktail bar of the year at the Australia Bartender Awards, No. 12 in the world's 50 best bars by Drinks International, and Austrlia's 10 most influential bar by Australian Bartender Magazine in 2010, Der Raum's ("The room" in german) credentials are endless and indeed impressive.

What differs this bar among the rest is their emphasis on qualitydrinks. To ensuretheir commitment in quality, Der Raum adopted a closed door policy with priority access provided by their membership holders. Don't expect seeing big signages at the door. It's not a place where you can walk by and discover,and this just further elevated the exclusivity of thebar.

Der Raum doesnt occupy a very large area, the room was dimly lit with not many sitting tables. Might as well, as the real showcase occupies the centerstage of the room, wherespirit bottles werehanged above the bartender's head with bungy cords.It was definitely visually attractive watching the bartenders utilizing those liquors to make those innovative cocktails. (almost like an artform). Their cocktails are bound to please even the pickiest drinkers.

And if you think degustation menuonly applies for food, think again. Der Raum provides an interesting 5coursemenu (drinks that is) for those who couldn't make up their minds. "Tourist Route" its called, and with AUD80, thisdegustation will set to bring you through a collection of their popu! lar drin ks, from Arrival, Pharmacy, Teachers Tripple, Captain Blackbeer, and Departure. And For those who wishesa more hardcorejourney, you should opted for the "TourDe Force"(AUD140) comprising of 8 course expansive cocktail selection.

1/ Spirits hanging above bartender's head with bungy cords

2/ Fancy some "zombie"? Rum, fresh tropical fruit, and flaming caramelizedpassionfruit
Bartender making our drinks with sheer concentration

Pharmacy - Pear and Roasted Capsicum Gin with Sweet Italian Bitters. The brilliant part? Citrus pill, to pop into your mouth after all the "medicine". A light concotion that's a women pleaser



Our drinks waiting to be served *rubs hand in glee*

Fuck the Surpreme: Der Raum Kummel, Cognac, Citrus, and Champagne.
One should stayabid to the law, because if you dont, u'd get this- a nasty mixture


El Moroccan Blazer, Hennessy VS Cognac, Sweet Port, Flamed Lime & Pineapple. Yummay!

Death in the Afternoon, Spiced Absinthe, Champagne, Rosemary

Sayer au Champagne, Champagne, Grand Marnier, Maraschino, Vanilla

El Poz olero- Mezcal, Italian Vermouth, Citrus, Mole Bitters, and Maple Stewed plum

Bees Knees: Tanquerey Gin, Pressed lemon and Nitro honey nest. Another pleasing drink for the ladies



Ms Jazz n Crazieapple <3

If you can only visit one bar whenyou're in Melbourne, Look no further than DER RAUM.

Der Raum
438, Church St,
Richmond, (corner of Chuch n Swan St)
Melbourne, Australia
Open at 5pm-10pm daily
03-94280055

http://www.derraum.com.au/ for more information.

My Carnivorific Pursuit - Bak Kut Teh, Bdr Sri Damansara

I "mourned" the demise of my favourite Bak Kut Teh stall in Bdr Sri Damansara. At RM7.50 per clay pot it had quietly satisfied my carnivorific carnal desire for all things meat with a Chinese twist. I slipped in of this decrepit shop when the urgings were uncontrollable and slipped out when satiated. There are times I felt guilty giving in to the temptations for such unhealthy food regime. Though I am also a vociferous consumer of vegetables the desire is tepid and I eat out of the need to balance my diet. Or maybe it is the act of a guilty conscience trying to compensate.

No, I don't get to go to Klang for my fix very often. In fact call rare. But I do eat BKT in S14 occasionally with my buddies. But those days are rare now since I moved office. So back to my neighbourhood BKT. Neighbourhood is defined as within 5mins. No toll and no crossing of any highways.

I was happy beyond words when a new stall opened for business. It is manned by a jolly rolly polly young man. And with that he effectively took over the mantle as the BKT man for Bdr Sri Damansara. It is still the one and only. So its better be good or else it will be a case of so near yet so far.
So I have been eating out from his hands over numerous occasions and I am glad to report that all is well. I am safe with my comfort for the time being. I wish him well and hope that he will stay the distance, dishing out this solid meal for the meat-eaters in this community.
My favourite BKT. The soup is in not the darkish and murk! y Klang concoction. It gave out a lighter herbal infused soup. Though I like the darker version this one will do.
Braised Pork in dark sauce. Unique, as the pork is soaked in a gravy. The consistency is nice for the rice and even to steal a sip or two.
This Yellow Wine Chicken is the favourite for many, man and woman alike. It is lovingly prepared with care as I usually positioned myself when seated, to face the stall.It is as though he is preparing it for his wife. Only the chicken thigh is used and the meat comes out smooth and tender. The julienne ginger is rather generous and matched well with the wine. A fantastic meal for the cool evening.

Address: Corner, Jalan Tanjung SD 13/1, Bandar Sri Damansara (same row as Maybank)
Business Hours: Open everyday in the evening till about 10:30pm.

Roast Duck @ Restoran Chee Xiang 11th Miles Cheras

I have heard of this roast duck at Cheras 11th Miles in the vicinity of Balakong and I tried to visit once with a property broker but failed as it was closed. My 2nd attempt was successful at Restoran Chee Xiang.

It is just a simple & typical eating stall as seen in Malaysian scene and a good place to try duck delight for lunch at this corner.

I was lucky to grab the last drum stick as the business was good there were lot of duck wings left which also look as big as chicken drum stick but not that meaty.

The roast duck meat was juicy and not tough easily to cut & bite and the taste was satisfying though it was too much of red meat for me.

I just could not resist the choon keen some kind of fried rolls and asked for one.
Frankly speaking I still prefer the one at Paramount Garden (PJ)s Loong Foongs roast duck.

Restaurant Chee Xiang
No 205 Main Road Kanan, Batu 11
Jalan Kampong Baru, Cheras
43200 Kajang, Selangor
TEL: 6019 3111390
GPS : 3.043969,101.7731

My Elephant @ Hartamas

After more than three years of brisk business at Section 17, My Elephant recently opened a second Aladdin's cave of Thai cuisine in another suburban neighborhood.

This branch's menu seems slightly wider, but we stuck to our longtime Elephant favorites. The duck curry with lychee & dragon fruit was as addictive as always _ a creamy concoction anchored by bountiful slices of tender meat.

Salt-baked fish, boasting marvelously moist flesh. My Elephant's prices have remained remarkably reasonable over the years _ a boon in this era of soaring costs.

White Thai kangkung with chicken & prawns. Ferociously spicy.

Plenty of rice, potentially sufficient to spur someone to spend hours on the treadmill.

One complaint: no wine is available so far, only beer.

Bookings are essential; the place is packed even on weeknights.

The crowds only leave after 10pm, once the kitchen is closed.


My Elephant,
Jalan Sri Hartamas 8, Taman Sri Hartamas.
Tel: 010-220-1283

Hot Chocolate Popovers

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Pictured above are 12 toasted marshmallows. Warm, gooey, sweet, toasty good.

The rest of the bag of marshmallows I ate those standing in front of the oven waiting for these little puffs to bake.

Then I went to the store and bought another bag.

Because I have a problem. And marshmallows are so soft so soft so delicious.

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Have you ever made popovers? So simple.

Popovers are like puffy pancake doughnuts. Arent those good words? Yes.

Also toasted marshmallows. Buy two bags. Dont feel bad.

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Set these little suckers aside. Theyll get toasted soon.

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Let me tell you how these popovers work.

Popover batter is loose and milky. In this recipe, the batter is divided into muffin cups, and baked in a super hot oven. the baking part is when you are welcome to just stand at the oven and eat the rest of the marshmallows.

Once baked and puffed, the popovers are removed from the oven, and get chocolate chips and marshmallows shoved into the center. If they deflate a bit thats totally fine. Once theyre stu! ffed, th e popovers are placed under a broiler to toast the marshmallows. This only takes a minute.

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Popovers are crazy yumtown served slightly warm with milky coffee.

The batter is not too sweet. Sweetness comes from chocolate chips and the toasted marshmallow.

Like. Love. Yum.

Hot Chocolate Popovers

makes: 12 popovers

recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

Print this Recipe!

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted plus more for greasing the pan

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup whole milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional)

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

12 large marshmallows.

Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

I used a standard muffin tin for these popovers. No fancy popover pan required. Use a paper towel to grease the individual muffin cups. Grease well with butter. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together butter, eggs, milk, and vanilla extract. Whisk well. Get an arm workout.

In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, instant espresso powder, salt, cocoa powder, and flour.

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and whisk until just incorporated and no lumps remain. I poured my batter in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup and poured the batter into the prepared muffin! pan. Fi ll cups one-half to two-thirds full. Place pan in the oven and set timer for 30 minutes.

No peeking. Thats important. Dont open the oven.

After 30 minutes, remove the popovers from the oven and immediately set oven to broiler.

Carefully add a sprinkling (maybe about 5-7) chocolate chips into the center of the popover, and top with a marshmallow. If you have to press the chocolate in and deflate the popover a bit, use the back of a spoon. Go for it.

Place pan under the broiler and barely close the door. Keep and eye on the toasting marshmallows. Theyll only need about a minute under the broiler. Feel free to rotate the pan as necessary.

Remove toasted popovers from the oven. Let cool for about 5 minutes. Use a butter knife to gently remove the popovers. Serve warm.

Popovers are best the day theyre made, but they also freeze just fine. Place in the freezer and reheat wrapped in foil, in a 350 degree oven.