Shanghainese zhongs.
For Shanghainesezhong
, seethis post. Shanghainesezhongs
are easier to make, requiring less ingredients. The rice doesn't need to be pre-soaked or fried but has to be marinaded for at least half an hour. The pork also doesn't need to be fried. Never leave the pork skin on for Shanghainesezhongs.
Let's take a break from my travel posts.
Last Saturday was Duanwu Jie, a day most people associate with glutinous rice dumplings called zhongzi (or zhong for short). As akid, I was told that Duanwu Jie (meaning double five, as it always falls on the fifth day of the fifth month of the Chinese calendar) is celebrated to remember a righteous, uncorrupted advisor to a Chinese king about 2500 years ago. There are many versions of the story but no matter which version, the story is the same: righteous man drowned in river and rice dumplings were thrown to the fish in the river to stop them from eating his body. For the same reason, dragon boat races evolved from villagers paddling their boats in the river and making loud noises to scare the fish away.
This is the second time that I made zhongzi (zhong for short). My first attempt was 5 years ago (how time flies!) and my son declared my zhongs not as good as my MIL's. That disappointing verdict, the awful amount of work and the fact that store-bought zhongs, at RM3.50 to RM7, are very affordable, deterred me from further attempts until last week when, after eating yet another disappointing store-bought zhong, Wey gave me the green li! ght to m ake him Shanghainese zhongs. Growing up eating his Na's Shanghainese zhongs which were stuffed with big lumps of fatty pork, Wey stubbornly refuses to give any credit to zhongs not made by his Na (Shanghanese for grandma). I am more accepting and I like both Shanghainese zhongs and Cantonese zhong but if I have to choose, I'll still take Cantonese zhongs over Shanghainese, provide they are both home-made. Although Shanghainese zhongs have a wonderful aroma of soy sauce and wine, the filling is just pork whereas Cantonese zhongshave pork, nuts, beans, salted egg yolks, mushrooms and dried shrimps and a hint of 5-spice powder. My FIL defends Shanghainese zhongsand grumbles that other zhongare ''ja chi ja ba" (a jumble or mixture, in an unpleasant way).
I very nearly gave up wrapping the zhongs. I had never wrapped triangular-shaped zhongzi before and the zhong leaves were short and narrow. Rice fell out of the corners of the zhongs and the leaves tore, and I had to unwrap the zhongs again and again. I very nearly put everything in one big pan and steamed it as huge pudding but I remembered how we disliked my dad's pillow zhongs which were so big (larger than an iPad) that we had to eat it as a family and Dad would cut it and reheat it by frying, resulting in a giant plate of jumbled rice and filling.Anyway, it took me a whole day to wrap 22 triangular zhongzi, five of which leaked rice when it cooked, and 23 Shanghainese ones.
It's hard to give exact measurements because I tweaked the recipe as I worked, tasting and adding more seasoning as needed. Also, the size of the zhong can vary. I tend to make my zhongs bigger than the commercial ones. The recipe here is a guide and you should adjust it to your taste. It's never late to make zhongs. Keep them in your freezer and they can be re-boiled or steamed months later. Zhongs, like Chinese
baos, are great s! nacks to bring on trips because you just have to unwrap them and eat them without using any utensils. At home, to keep our hands from getting oily, we use forks or spoons.
It was totally worth the effort to make these zhongs because Wey declared them the same as his Na's (he still doesn't bother with Cantonese zhongs) and he loves them so much, he eats two a day.
The filling ingredients for
Shanghainese zhongsare not fried but the filling for Cantonese zhongs are pan-fried to deepen the flavors.
Making rectangular or 'pillow' zhongs.
Rectangular 'pillow' zhongs are the easiest to wrap. Always use weed strings or thread to tie the zhongs; do not use plastic or raffia strings.
Making triangular zhongs. Here's a video on
howto wrap triangular zhongs.
Cantonese zhongs
Cantonese Zhongzi (makes about 20 or more)
dried bamboo leaves, hard tips/petiole snipped off, leaves boiled 10 minutes and washed well
weed (boiled to soften) or strings to tie (do not use raffia)
1 kg glutinous rice, picked through & soaked 2 hours and drained for 1/2 hour before using
500 to 800 gm belly pork with skin, cut into 2.5 cm cubes
10 dried Chinese mushrooms, soaked till soft and halved, squeeze lightly to remove half the water
20 dried chestnuts, soaked and boiled 10 minutes or 1 cup white beans, soaked
1/2 cup dried shrimps, washed and soaked 10 minutes only
10 salted duck egg yolks, halved using thread or wire
20 pieces dried scallops, soaked 15 minutes to soften
1/3 cup finely chopped garlic
1/3 cup finely chopped small red onions
seasoning for pork:
1 T light soy sauce
1/2 T dark soy sauce
1 piece red bean curd (nam yue*), mashed + 1 T sauce
dashes of white pepper
1/4 t salt
1 t sugar
1 t 5-s! pice pow der
* this is a secret ingredient revealed to me by a lady who has been making zhongs for sale for 40 years.
Note: 2 to 3 days before wrapping the zhong, marinade the pork with the seasoning and leave in a bowl wrapped with cling film in the fridge. Turn once a day to mix well.
1. Assemble everything in front of you.
2. In a heated wok, fry the dried shrimpsover low heatwith 1 T oil, 1 t each of garlic and onions until fragrant and dried. You can fry the dried scallops with the shrimps too, if you like a drier and more fragrant flavor and taste, but if you prefer softer scallops, do not fry ( I don't). Remove.
3. Add 1 T oil to the same wok, then add 1 t each of the garlic and onions, and the mushrooms. Add 1 t light soy sauce and 1/2 t sugar and fry about 1 minute. Remove.
4. Add 2 T oil to the same wok, add 1 T each of garlic and onions and fry the pork over medium-low heat until pork is seared all over but not cooked inside.
5. If the wok is not covered with burnt bits, do not wash. Put 2 T oil into the wok, fry 1 T each of garlic and onions and 1/4 t 5-spice powder,and then add the rice. Now add1 T light soy sauce (and dark, if you want more color), 1 t salt, a few shakes of white pepper and--this is something nobody tells you--a few shakes of msg. Fry rice over medium heat until it looks dry, about 3 minutes. Remove.
6. Fold two bamboo leaves into a cone, fill with 2 T rice and pack it firmly with the back of a spoon. Drop a piece each of mushroom, chestnut, egg yolk, pork and a tsp of dried shrimps and scallops onto the rice. Top filling with 5 to 6 T rice, pack it again with a spoon, and wrapand tie firmly but not too tightly because the rice needs space to expand.
7. Put all the zhong (tie them in bunches of 5 or 6 to make handling them easier) into a large pot and cover with water. Boil for 2 to 2 ! 1/2 hour s. After an hour, taste the water. If you can taste the salty savouriness, fine. If not, add more salt to the water. It should taste salty but just lightly salted. Leave the cooked zhong in the pot, covered, for another 1/2 hour (saves cooking longer).
Zhongs are eaten hot or warm, never cold. Serve some Chinese tea, sit down and enjoy the rewarding sight of your family devouring your hard work.
