Yummy Malaysiana: Spasso Milano @ Pavilion

Spasso Milano @ Pavilion

Spasso Milano has moved from Ampang to Pavilion, looking to lure a larger crowd hankering for Italian fare on the mall's sixth floor.

The biggest surprise: the restaurant now serves pork! Nevertheless, its famed afternoon antipasti buffets should remain available, though we're not certain whether prices will be hiked.

Fileja, a doughy Calabrian delight _ handmade with durum wheat, topped with grilled pork belly & tossed in garlic, extra virgin olive oil, oregano & chili flakes. An "aglio olio" preparation, one of the most pleasing pastas we've had this year (OK, sure, it's only January).

Pizza with air-dried speck ham & smoked scamorza cheese. You know how Domino's & Pizza Hut frequently promote new creations that they claim will be deliciously meaty or divinely cheesy? Spasso Milano's wood-fired wonder fulfills that description.

Pork Valdostana _ escalopes topped with baked ham & fontina cheese. Warning: Spasso Milano isn't the place for healthy eating. Besides the obvious preponderance of pasta, pork & cheese, the sodium level in many of these recipes is more than perceptible.

Traditional spirits of Italy _ from grappa to limoncello _ are offered by the glass (hurray!). Allegrini Grappa Di Amarone & Limoncello, Agriarti.

Grappa Di Brunello, Banfi 2009 & Grappa Di Casalferro. They'll put hair on your chest!

Bergami, Agriarti & Liquiri, Agriarti, for a honeyed finish.

Teething troubles are evident, however; the service team is often diligent but occasionally dazed, resulting in the erratic delivery of dishes. It'll get better, we're confident of that.