Bijan, Kuala Lumpur

Bijan is a highly awardedfine-diningrestaurant in Kuala Lumpur. I've seen the name so many times but never read the reviews and I've always had the impression that it was a French restaurant. I walked into the dimly-lit Bali-style restaurant with its al fresco dining area, bamboo blinds and palm trees and expected a fancy French menu but while the prices were French enough (i.e. affordable only on special occasions), the cuisine was Malay with a hint of Indonesian. There are no fine-dining Malay restaurants in KK, a fact that I've always complained about. We don't even have a decent Malay dining restaurant to bring our visitors, other than standard hotel restaurants that have a few Malay dishes on the menu as an afterthought. I smell financial opportunities in that vacumn but I think unless we get some entreprenuer from KL, local Malay restaurant cuisine will continue to be limited to soto daging and nasi lemak.

Bijan (not the French name but sesame seeds in Malay--but of course!), I'm told, has slipped a little in its standards recently although it is still rated among the top Malay fine-dining restaurants in KL. Despite that, I loved the food at Bijan, and my top pick is Opor Rusuk, succulent and aromatic beef ribs stewed with spices and coconut milk. Another unforgettable item is Bijan's Chocolate Durian Cake, which was a slice of heaven, trite as it sounds.

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Kerabu Mangga, a tangy-spicy salad of unripe mangoes that went well with the rich dishes.

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Opor Rusuk, stewed be! ef ribs in spices, toasted coconut, gula melaka and coconut milk. So, so good--the best dish. Superbly-flavored ribs slow-cooked until it was super tender yet still stuck to the bones.

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Terung Goreng Bercili, fried brinjals with a chili sauce.

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Another delicious meat dish: Rusuk Panggang, bbqed beef ribs with dark soy sauce, belacan (shrimp paste) and spices.

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Masak Lemak Udang Dengan Nenas, prawns and pineapple in a spicy coconut sauce. I have no recollection of this dish!

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Or this chicken dish, partly because it was so dark in the restaurant (next time I come to Bijan, it'll be before sundown because I want to be able to SEE the food and place) and everything was just so yum.

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Dang, I don't know this one either but like all spicy dishes, this was heaven when eaten with w! hite ric e.

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Pucuk Paku Goreng Tahi Minyak--what is 'tahi minyak'?--, stir-fried wild ferns and prawns with chili and caramelized coconut. Are you drooling yet?


After all that, I thought I should skip dessert but was told that it would be a big mistake.

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I took a small bite of Sharmaine's Beach Holiday Cake, a soft pandan sponge covered with buttercream,mango compote and toasted coconut. It was yum but didn't blow me off my feet.

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Classic cendol, pandan-flavored mung bean strips with gula melaka (palm sugar, the best-tasting sugar in the world, I must repeat) and coconut milk. Forget about fussy multi layered Opera cake and other fancy stuff. Cendol with good coconut milk and gula melaka is simple but ohhh-sooo-goood.

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Finally, the crowning glory of Bijan's dessert menu, the Chocolate Durian Cake. What can I say? This blew me off my feet.

Many thanks to the Royal Selangor folks for the superb meal which was made double ! enjoyabl e by their company!

No 3 Jalan Ceylon
50200 Kuala Lumpur
Tel + 60320313575
Fax + 60320313576
Email: admin@bijanrestaurant.com
Open Mondays to Sundays 4:30pm to 11 pm.


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