Vilarnau Ros Cava

Bubbles make a party. But to be honest, this is not the world's most impressive sparkling ros. It's fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with it at all. Pleasant flavours of red currants and raspberries plus a playful sparkle and that's about it. And often that is all you need. The Vilarnau Brut Rosado Cava might lack the weighty mouthful to cope with substantial food but throw a few light nibbles and canaps at it and its fine. A soft, lightly juicy character and those bubbles make this a great end-of-summer aperitif style wine. Something to make a party, not something to delve too deeply into, to philosophise over, it'll encourage the party atmosphere, not stop the conversation mid-flow like in that ridiculous cheese advert...

Vilarnau Brut Rosado, [Adegga / Snooth] available from Ocado, Winehouse and selected independents is only 10.49, comes in restrained, attractive packaging and for those who need the info is made from Trepat and Pinot Noir with 12.4% alcohol.

Rather than partying-it-up like its 1999, last weekend I cracked this open as a try-out with deep fried squid. I was rather taken with the simplicity of the squid recipe from Niamh's new cookbook - Comfort and Spice - and this ros certainly worked, emphasising the heat of the pepper marvellously. Niamh's recipe calls for chunks of squid, coated in a mix of flour and plenty of hot Sichuan pepper, to be deep fried and served as is. While Dr. Who frightened the youngsters across the country I was dipping my squid in Stokes mayonnaise... and washing it all down with this pink cava. See! ms I'm t oo old to party like its 1999.... Not that I can recall much of 1999...