I still remember the lovely aroma of the cheese melting on the salamander that hits you when you enter the restaurant. Its still on the menu, as are some Swiss classics like Emince de Veau a la Zurichoise or thinly sliced veal and mushrooms in cream sauce with roesti potatoes, and the fondues, both cheese and beef.
A few dishes are prepared and served tableside, such as the Cote de Boeuf, a grain-fed rib steak flamed with cognac in a green peppercorn sauce. You cant find such service anywhere now. Ask for a sabayon at the end of dinner, and a rollicking song and dance comes with it.
But we were here for the chefs table, a once-a-month occasion at this restaurant, to which corporate clients are usually invited, at lunch.
A degustation menu had been put together by chef Hafizzul Hashim, who has worked in one Michelin-star restaurants Chez Bruce and Mirabelle in London and at some fine-dining restaurants in Kuala Lumpur.
Then it was on to Spanish black mussels, chorizo and saffron soup with leeks, potato and garlic croutons. A hint of Madras curry powder gives a spice lift to the creamy saffron soup which had been infused with basil.
It was texturally interesting lovely, sweet plump mussels in a busy mellow soup with crispy croutons, chopped leek and bits of potatoes.
The Slow Braised Angus beef cheek and Pacific oyster with Cabernet Sauvignon, cepes and herbs is a marriage of earth and sea, said Hafizzul. Both came together with aplomb the small chunks of tender beef in a sweet, heady sauce with chervil, parsley and chives, drizzled over the oysters. But I also wondered about how the beef would taste on its own, in that delicious sauce.
There was the tart, welcome interlude with passion fruit sorbet and the palate was refreshed for the main course of pan roasted duck breast and foie gras with sweet cherries and caramelised apples in a Marsala wine reduction.
The other main course was Grilled Barramundi and calamari with cannellini bean puree, clam and parsley veloute.
Rich bursts from the foie gras, tender duck, the stirring, sweet flavours of fruit and the creamy parsnip vanilla puree all came together sublimely.
Dessert was somewhat of a letdown with the molten chocolate cake - perfectly done, with a runny centre served with vanilla ice cream and strawberry compote (I had expected something extraordinary!). However, the sabayon performance more than made up for it.
A big brass basin was brought tableside; theres the aroma of! butter melting over the fire, then orange and lime juice added. The sauce is done, the egg yolks added, then the wait for the band and four staff members, two wearing flashing sunglasses to strut their stuff.
Lots of gyrating to the cha cha, samba, twist and rock n roll beat, and whisking to the music, with some sabayon on the floor, it was ready to be served! It was a great show.
Ice chocolate pralines, or bon-bon, brought dinner to a wonderful Old World ending. I like it that its always like this in Chalet.
Hafizzul is a young chef, only 28. To think I had met him, tasted and liked his food when he was only 25. So I will be back for the old-fashioned Tournedos Rossini, Steak Tartare and the French Pressed Duck (a days advance order). But the chefs expertise is also in putting together a contemporary degustation menu (five courses) at RM198++.
I liked the look of a previous degustation menu of foie gras terrine, figs chutney and toasted brioche; potage of celery, poached eggs and croutons; scallop ceviche, cress salad and roasted almond flake, passion fruit sorbet; grilled Norwegian salmon with pea puree and shallots, Kalamata olives, fennel confit and vanilla vinaigrette or Angus beef cheek and foie gras ravioli, Portobello mushrooms, asparagus and consomm; vanilla souffl with crme Anglaise.
Chalet is in the Equatorial Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail (Tel: 03-2161-7777).
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